Jonathan Anderson's Dior debut: the women's collection that's set fire to the internet

All eyes have been on Jonathan Anderson this week with the highly acclaimed designer presenting his debut women's collection for Dior.

In case you missed it, the 41-year-old Northern Irishman, is the first person in the French brand's storied history to oversee both men's and women's lines and the galaxy of stars at the show was evidence of the weight of history.

The front row glittered with celebrities including Johnny Depp, Rosalia, Jennifer Lawrence, Rosamund Pike, Anya Taylor-Joy and Charlize Theron to name but a few.

Anderson explores the archives

The show ended with a standing ovation and the wave of applause echoed from the audience to social media. TikTokers were quick to respond: "Dior is back!" - screamed @break.archive, and thousands of hearts and comments of admiration followed @elisazarzur 's video.

Many other internet users appreciated the elegant references to archives and the subtle references to designs from the 1950s and 1960s: "ooooh, I just LOVE how creative directors tap into the archives, resurrecting classic designs in the most impeccable way - it's really wonderful, I totally buy it! 😍😍".

Fashion lovers were nostalgic for the return of trapeze coats, delicate pleats and classic silhouettes 'à la New Look' - when Christian Dior re-crowned Paris as the world's fashion capital in 1947.

Balanced voices: between form and function

However, there was no shortage of more subdued analyses. Some commentators noted that while the design and colour palette of the collection were flawless, it was not entirely clear who the new Dior was meant to appeal to.

"Some of these are inexcusable for Dior, but they do work as J W Anderson designs. Not sure of the intended market because it’s too formal and structured for the rich tiktok crowd, and too out there for the legacy Dior customer base," wrote one user.

Critical cuts

Much of the criticism online centred on the question of the collection's identity, with others accusing Anderson of lacking a clear vision of the Dior woman.

Disappointed voices made their feelings known. @anastasiia_nav and @thefashionjoker did not hide their dismay: "this looks like a female version of JW Anderson's men's collection, not an independent vision of the Dior woman. Where's the power here, where's the character? Playing it safe, we got clothes for conservative wives with titles. And where's the big 'F' like Fashion?"

For many, this was not innovative enough for a new creative director's debut at such a prestigious fashion house.

Jonathan Anderson undoubtedly set out to dialogue with the brand's history - but did this dialogue really speak to the modern woman? The SS26 collection is not only a tribute to the past, but also a test for Dior's future.

The emotions it evoked show one thing: the brand has entered a new phase. However, is it in the right direction?